Trip Reports : Lake Angelus Tramp
Updated 1st February 2011 By Ann Crozier
Our objective was to climb up to Lake Angelus mainly as all three of us had never managed
the tramp before. We had walked the icy path to Julius and then down to Speargrass but
Lake Angelus had remained the one tramp in the Nelson Lakes National Park that had
eluded us. ‘Us' being three ladies of an undisclosed age who had tramped together for many
a year. We stayed the night in the village of St Arnaud before being driven to Mount Robert
Carpark ready to start our tramp at 9.00am. The day was calm and slightly overcast and as
we zigzagged our way up 'Pinchgut track' we admired the wonderful views of
Lake Rotoiti and the St Arnaud Range spread out before us.
Lake Rotoiti
Bush Edge Shelter
The path then went into bush before emerging above the snowline and we enjoyed a
relaxing break in the Bushedge Shelter before continuing along a well marked track to the
basin of Mount Robert Skifield. We skirted the basin admiring the vegetable sheep plants
and the remnants of last summer's alpine daisies. As we following the ridge even higher, the
wind grew stronger. Imagine our surprise as we came to the top of a ridge to hear the call of
Kea and look down to see two scantily clad guys running up towards us accompanied by
two Kea who must have been very interested in these strange humans! (Just a Nelson Vet
and friend enjoying a Saturday morning run!)
Mt Robert Skifield Shelter (Removed 2006)
We continued along the ridge. The weather by this time was definitely getting cooler and we
were glad we had the foresight to pack hats & gloves. We were aware of sudden weather
changes that could catch you by surprise even in midsummer. (Encouraging readers to pack
for the unexpected.) On one particular ridge a silent monster of a bird flew over us making
us jump. Just a glider making the most of the airlift up the mountain sides! A cold stop for
lunch, sheltering under a rock and then onwards past Julius Summit, path full of loose rubble,
but well marked with cairns. The cloud and mist was filling up our view to the west by now
but to the south we could still see the mountain ranges and beautiful little tarns tucked into
glaciated valleys. We followed the ridge up and down with the wind blowing quite strongly.
We seemed to be the only ones up on the tops and we had to make it to Angelus Hut before
darkness fell. Shale slips meant we had to take our time. A chocolate stop gave us renewed
energy. Surely we will soon see the hut! Up and over yet another peak, down the other side
and still the track continued!
Lake Angelus,Angelus Hut & Mt Angelus
Angelus Hut
At 6.00pm we finally looked to our right and far down in the basin below lay Lake Angelus
and Angelus Hut. The final climb down over the scree took longer than expected and we
reached the hut at 6.30 pm tired but happy. Lake Angelus hut is a new hut that can sleep
36. It was full to overflowing with several trampers deciding to sleep in tents rather than the
hut.We still managed to find a bunk though and the sound of the wind whistling round the hut
lulled us to sleep. Unfortunately we found when we arrived that the hut didn't have a gas
stove for cooking. We hadn't made provision for this and were caught out. The only cooking
facilities in the hut were a log burner and old pot. So remember to take your gas stove with
you! The weather hadn't improved by morning. Misty rain was falling and cloud covered the
tops. We decided to take the quickest way down from the top, via the Cascade Track.
Leaving the hut at 8.30am we started down a wet track full of rubble which was part of an
enormous scree slip.
Mary Bier Hukere Stream ( Cascade Stream)
We could see this spread out before us, so took our time going down the zigzag path. Over
to our right we watched a wonderful waterfall leap from the tops and fall 50 metres or more
before huge rocks broke its fall. We realised later that this waterfall was the start of the river
that we followed for most of the day. At the end of the scree we met the bush and the track
continued through a 'meadow' clearing and then followed the every growing river. At one
stage the river seems to go underground, reappearing later. Huge boulders showed that
an enormous slip had at one stage crashed down the mountainside, coming to a halt just the
other side of the river. The bush had grown but the boulders remained At 4.00pm we
reached the Travers Track and headed to Coldwater Hut.
Cold Water Hut
We hoped to contact Bill Butters and get a water taxi out but unfortunately this didn't
eventuate. We decided that the eastern Lakehead Track of Lake Rotoiti was the best way to
walk out but first we had to cross the Travers River, the delta of the river has many channels!
Eventually cold, wet, tired we started out on the track for Kerr Bay. It was getting dark and
we realised we still had three hours walking before us. Imagine our surprise and delight when
up the track towards us came a guy (Allan Poll) with a lifejacket on . Two guys in a boat had seen us
trying to cross the estuary and had decided to tie up at the jetty, and one come to meet us to
see if we would like a ride out to Kerr Bay. All three of us felt like hugging him and we
accepted his kind offer. Fifteen minutes in the boat and we were back to Kerr Bay. Tired but
exhilarated as we had achieved our objective and walked to Angelus Hut!
Marie Melvin, Mary Bier and Ann Crozier
April, 2001
Ann Crozier
Ann At Lake Rotoiti
Ann Crozier had a great passion for tramping and enjoying the great out doors. Her zest for life has inspired many people to take up the challenge and tackle the mountains. Sadly Ann passed away in 2003. She is missed dearly by the people of St Arnaud and the tramping community.
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